Autumn Tour Day 2 – Strontian - Ardnamurchan
I slept well after a tough day yesterday, and awoke to condensation on the tent and on my bike. The campsite was in a sheltered spot surrounded by mountains so there wasn’t much sun getting in to warm the place and it was very cold overnight. I wandered over to the local cafe for a full Scottish breakfast, wondering if I’d regret it later, then packed up and set off. After crossing the Strontian river the road went straight into climbing, with tremendous views of Loch Sunart on my left all the time and, when I remembered to look that way, some stunning mountain scenery on my right too. It was a lovely road for cycling on, aside from the hilly nature, tree lined with heather and more small hidden waterfalls. It was greyer than yesterday with more cloud, and windier too.
I was intending to head to Kilchoan, but hadn’t seen this on any signposts as yet so was a little concerned, but I eventually came to a sign directing me left for Ardnamurchan – the most westerly point on the British mainland. Soon after I stopped at Salen Jetty Shop for provisions, and shortly after I had remounted and continued on my way I came across a deer coming out of the woodland on my right. I stopped, it stopped, and we looked at each other for a few seconds before it decided I wasn’t that interesting and turned and headed back into the forest. I’d planned on visiting Ardnamurchan Distillery but was unsure how far away it was until I came upon a whisky barrel at the side of the road proclaiming it to be in 1 mile.
I stopped at the distillery to buy some miniatures and merchandise, then headed a few hundred yards down the road to stop at the Ardnamurchan Natural History Visitor Centre for coffee and cake. After my stop, the hills reared up again! If it had been a road race the course would have been described as attritional! Eventually the last big climb was over and for the next few miles the wind was behind me and I flew along, even cycling uphill seemed easy. After a while I was surprised to see the sea in the distance, with an island. I recognised this to be Skye, the unmistakeable Cuillin mountains prominent on the horizon. After a while the road turned back into the wind for a long downhill section through to Kilchoan, where I may have exceeded the 30mph speed limit entering the village.
Riding through Kilchoan I passed the turn off for the ferry I’d be catching tomorrow and, after turning into the wrong campsite by mistake, headed past the local shop and on to my (correct) campsite. I checked in, pitched my tent in what I hoped would be a sheltered spot in amongst some trees, and headed off to Ardnamurchan lighthouse. Not before I’d taken all my heavy panniers off though, I knew there would be more climbing and needed all the help I could get.
It was only 7 miles, but undulating still. I was hoping to catch the cafe open, but didn’t hold out much hope. As it was though, I got there with plenty of time to spare. I had a good chat with the ladies running the cafe while I was buying food and gifts, and when I pointed out that I hadn’t bought any tools or puncture repair stuff they offered to take me back to the campsite in their pickup truck. I declined but said if they saw me in trouble when they left they could stop and help. After a walk around the lighthouse and taking a few pictures I set back off. I stopped at a few places for photos, at one spot I saw a bird of prey flying, at another the ladies from the cafe came past. They asked again if I needed a lift and I declined again. Further along the road I came across another deer on the road, this time I managed to take a photo before it disappeared into the trees.
Finally I got back to Kilchoan and headed uphill to the campsite. Along the road I slowed to avoid a chicken in the road, and who should come out of the house on the left but one of the ladies from the cafe! With a cheery wave I rode into the campsite and back to my tent.
Day 2: 44 miles, 7½ hours elapsed, 4,265 feet climbed
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