I’d planned a four day tour around the Morvern and Ardnamurchan peninsulas, Mull and Iona to try to make the most of some good early autumn weather, with dry and settled conditions in the forecast when I set off up the M6. My trip started with an early morning ferry from Oban across to Craignure on Mull, and I excitedly went to check in and was directed to stand by a large yellow sign advising cyclists to ‘Q’ here for the ferry. Two other cyclists were on the same sailing as me, and we were loaded onto the ferry first ahead of all the vehicles. Securing my bike in the hold I made my way to the outside decks to enjoy the 50 minute journey. It was a cloudy morning, but as we set sail the sun started rising on the horizon, making a beautiful sight as it rose over the mountains. We passed the island of Lismore with its lighthouse, and approaching Mull were treated to good views of Duart Castle, and I was lucky enough to spot a pod of dolphins in the distance.
Soon we were docking at Craignure and I disembarked. After a quick check of the bike I set off west along the A849 for Fishnish, and my next ferry over the Sound of Mull to Lochaline. This was a much smaller ferry and a shorter journey at less than 20 minutes, and soon I was back on the mainland on the Morvern peninsula. A left turn just after the ferry terminal took me along a quiet, rolling road heading towards Drimnin, and the Nc’Nean distillery (shop visits by appointment only – luckily I’d received an email confirming I could visit whilst on the ferry from Oban!). The road offered some lovely views over the Sound to Mull, and inland there were wooded areas with lots of small waterfalls trickling down off the hills. I passed the rock formation of Clach Na Criche, known as the Wishing Stone as legend has it wishes were granted to anyone who passed through the hole in the rock without touching the sides, and shortly after came upon the pretty Ferinish Church and War Memorial at Bonnavoulin. I was also treated to the sight of a pine marten on the road ahead of me, although not for long as it scarpered pretty quick when it became aware of me.
I passed a sign warning of red squirrels, and then branched off the road at Drimnin Village Hall onto the Drimnin Estate. Soon I came upon a barrel at the side of the road which had “Nearly There” painted on its side. Another branch off the road had me climbing up and then I finally came to the distillery. I went into the shop and bought a couple of miniatures, and then the girl serving me asked if I wanted to join the tasting that was just abut to start. Well, it would seem rude not to, I thought, and shortly I was sat at a table with a friendly young German couple and an older Dutch couple. The tour guide then came in and asked if we wanted cake and biscuit with our whiskies – the day was turning out really good!
Two hours after I’d stopped I was ready to set off again. Both couples passed me in their cars with a cheery wave as I rode back towards Lochaline. Further down the road I came across a truck with a couple of workmen who were filling in potholes. I squeezed past on the narrow road after exchanging pleasantries, and a short while after they passed me on their way to the next repair. Soon I came upon them filling again and got offered a shovel to help them. I declined gracefully and bade them farewell again. Soon I got back to Lochaline and headed north on the main road, being passed with another cheery wave by the road workers. The road was very lumpy indeed, with many false summits crested, however the scenery with lots of mountains took my mind off it, and I stopped quite a few times to take photos and drink in the views.
After a while, and plenty more climbing, I reached a summit and got my first sighting of Loch Sunart. It was very scenic indeed, and the views got better as I descended. Back down on lower ground, I still had a number of miles of rolling road until I got to my campsite, and I was starting to feel fatigued by now. Eventually I crossed the Carnoch river and turned left on the A861 towards Strontian, stopping at the post office for ice cream before continuing on to the campsite. I pitched my tent, and walked to the local shop for supplies for tea. I watched half a dozen bats flitting about above me as I relaxed in the evening before settling down for a well earned good night’s sleep.
Day 1: 49 miles, 8 ½ hours elapsed time, 3,379 feet climbed
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