Autumn Tour Day 4 : Iona - Mull - Oban

I didn’t get a great deal of sleep for the second consecutive night, due to the strong winds battering my tent. Fortunately I’d pitched it well and there was no danger of it (and me) being blown away. I got up fairly early, I needed to be at the ferry terminal to catch the first ferry anyway and it was no fun lying inside the tent. I took the tent down carefully then went to the kitchen to fill my water bottles, where I came across a young girl from Colorado who’d pitched her tent after I arrived. We had a chat and I wished her safe travels. I set off for the ferry and waited its arrival from Fionnphort. Suddenly, like a crowd of zombies coming out of the woods, loads of tourists appeared from the street above the harbour and descended on the terminal, clearly they all had to catch the first ferry too! The other cyclist that was camping also turned up too, dragging his camping gear in a trailer behind him.

I watched the ferry as it arrived, feeling thankful that I wasn’t going to be stranded on the island for another day, lovely as the island was. I spent the journey below decks this time, and disembarked at the other end. According to my schedule the ferry I’d booked to Oban departed at 14:25, and it was just after 9:00 now. With 36 miles to cover I should have plenty of time, even allowing for the hills I knew I had to climb. The other cyclist had already set off, while I got my bike ready, took a photo of a couple of Highland cows that were in the car park and then set off. I had to stop in passing places every so often to allow the tourists in their cars and buses to go past me. I soon caught up with and passed the other cyclist.

The road rolled up and down into a strong wind as I passed Pottie again and continued through Bunessan, passing a primary school and war memorial. The wind was due to pick up at midday so I was hoping to get a crack on. I stopped at Port Nan Gael stores again for an early lunch then set off, passing the small herd of Highland cattle again. After passing the B road where I’d came in yesterday the main road carried on and started climbing. I knew there were a couple of steep climbs ahead, even more so than on previous days, so settled into a rhythm I hoped would get me over without tiring myself out. It was a fairly steady climb through stunning scenery, stopping every so often in passing places to allow traffic to pass. I used these stops to take a quick drink and to take the occasional photo.

The climbing went on and on for over 5 miles with many false summits, but eventually I spotted a gap in the mountains that heralded the summit of the climb, where I came to the Three Lochs viewpoint. Pausing for a photo, I set off again and encountered another cyclist going in the opposite direction, letting them know they were nearly at the top. There followed a long downhill which I enjoyed, aside from having to brake for cattle grids to avoid blowing out a tyre. The road eventually flattened out a little and turned south east somewhat surprisingly. I had to get my phone out and check where I was, fortunately I was still on the right route and still on track to get to Craignure ferry terminal well ahead of departure time.

I rode on, passing Loch Spelve and Inverlussa Mussel Farm, through Lochdon and past signs for Duart Castle. The miles were ticking down and I was fairly relaxed, knowing I had plenty of time in hand. A couple more climbs and I was in Craignure just before 1:30, riding through the village to the ferry terminal where I saw that a ferry was docked. I assumed this was an earlier ferry and rode up to the check in point to see if I had missed the check in time. Luckily I hadn’t and boarded the ferry, securing my bike and going up on decks to enjoy the journey. It was only then that I checked to see when the ferry would arrive in Oban and realised that this was the ferry that I’d actually booked, and it ARRIVED in Oban at 14:25! Departure was actually 13:35, and check in closed (in theory) at 13:05, while I was still riding. It was a good job I wasn’t aware of this earlier otherwise it would have been a very stressful ride!

Day 4 : 36 miles, 5¼ hours elapsed, 2,277 feet climbed

Autumn Tour Day 3 : Ardnamurchan - Mull - Iona

I woke early feeling very tired – with the strong wind the waves were rather too noisy for me and I struggled to get much sleep. I had to get up at 6:30 anyway to make the first ferry, in order to get to Iona in decent time. I was a little concerned about catching the ferry anyway, it was a passenger only charter to replace the usual ferry and I had mixed messages from Cal Mac regarding whether bikes were allowed or not. If not, I had no obvious plan other than to wait a couple of days for the normal ferry to return to service or go back the (very hilly) way I’d came. Whatever the outcome, I had to get to the ferry landing anyway, so packed my things away and headed off.

I got to the ferry landing and waited. Soon I could see the tiny boat coming across from Tobermory in the choppy sea, and fortunately as it got closer I spotted another cyclist on board. I was clearly ok to get on! Hoisting my bike on board, I took my luggage on and settled in for the choppy ride. We passed close to Tobermory lighthouse before entering the picturesque harbour of Tobermory itself, with its famous colourful houses by the quayside. Having disembarked, I passed the Tobermory Distillery Visitor Centre which I’d intended to stop at, however I hadn’t realised what time I’d be around, and wasn’t sure when it opened. Calling in at a local shop for a coffee and breakfast bap I thought I’d get a couple of miniatures there, however I was foiled by the Scottish Licensing Laws which prohibit the sale of alcohol before 10am, which coincidentally was when the Visitor Centre opened.

Thwarted, I set off up the hill out of the harbour. I was feeling tired and wasn’t sure if I’d make Iona that day, so I had a Plan B of camping at Salen on Mull if necessary. As I rode along I was treated to very scenic views of the Sound of Mull and the Morven peninsula, at one point three buzzards were circling above. I soon came upon Salen, much earlier than I’d expected, so decided to head south and push on for Iona. It was a bit of a climb to start with through woodland, but soon settled. I passed the pretty Scottish Episcopal Church at Gruline, and then rather worryingly came across a Road Closed sign. I decided to push on anyway, as I thought I ought to be able to at least walk past whatever the closure was. The woodland soon gave way to open views over Loch Na Keal, with the sun out and fluffy white clouds it was a spectacular sight.

A few miles down the road I came to the closure, where BT were replacing a telephone pole. I squeezed through this ok and carried on, coming across my first roadside milepost for the Iona Ferry – 32 miles. Several miles of flattish, quiet lochside road followed before I passed some huge, sheer cliffs on my left with signs warning of danger from rockfall. Shortly after this the road turned inland and climbed, and at one point I ended up pushing up a particularly steep bit, watched by three curious goats. As the gradient eased I remounted and climbed a bit more before reaching a summit, after which the road descended and I came across Loch Scridain. The road veered northwards for a while, and I passed several birdwatchers standing with binoculars in their hands.

Eventually the road reached a junction with the A849, where I turned west for Fionnphort. I crossed a lovely river by the Bridge of Beg then rode through another herd of Highland Cows, this time without any young calves. At Pennyghael I stopped at Port Nan Gael stores for refreshments, and here I received a notification from the Cal Mac app that tomorrow’s Iona ferry sailings may be disrupted or cancelled due to high winds. This gave me a new dilemma – do I continue to Iona and risk being stranded, do I find an alternate campsite on Mull for tonight? It was also very windy now – do I camp in this wind or find more solid shelter?

The last few miles to Fionnphort became more of the lumpy rollercoaster that I’d been used to, and seemed to drag on forever. I went through the pretty village of Bunessan and passed a turning for Pottie, shortly after which I noticed Loch Pottie on my left. I rode into Fionnphort and awaited the ferry. Looking at the weather forecast the high winds were due the following day at around lunchtime, and I should be long gone by then, so when the ferry arrived I wheeled the bike on and went on top to enjoy the 10 minute trip.

At Iona I waited for all the tourists (there were lots of them!) to get off before I too disembarked. Before I went to the campsite I had a ride around the northern part of the island, past the Abbey and Nunnery area which was crowded. I did a little shopping for provisions and gifts and then went to find the campsite. There was one other cycle camper when I arrived, and I wandered round the site looking for a reasonably sheltered place to pitch my tent. I couldn’t really find any, so went for what I thought was least exposed and set up. It would be interesting to see what the night would bring! 

Day 3: 52 miles, 8½ hours elapsed, 3,258 feet climbed

Autumn Tour Day 2 : Strontian - Ardnamurchan

I slept well after a tough day yesterday, and awoke to condensation on the tent and on my bike. The campsite was in a sheltered spot surrounded by mountains so there wasn’t much sun getting in to warm the place and it was very cold overnight. I wandered over to the local cafe for a full Scottish breakfast, wondering if I’d regret it later, then packed up and set off. After crossing the Strontian river the road went straight into climbing, with tremendous views of Loch Sunart on my left all the time and, when I remembered to look that way, some stunning mountain scenery on my right too. It was a lovely road for cycling on, aside from the hilly nature, tree lined with heather and more small hidden waterfalls. It was greyer than yesterday with more cloud, and windier too.

I was intending to head to Kilchoan, but hadn’t seen this on any signposts as yet so was a little concerned, but I eventually came to a sign directing me left for Ardnamurchan – the most westerly point on the British mainland. Soon after I stopped at Salen Jetty Shop for provisions, and shortly after I had remounted and continued on my way I came across a deer coming out of the woodland on my right. I stopped, it stopped, and we looked at each other for a few seconds before it decided I wasn’t that interesting and turned and headed back into the forest. I’d planned on visiting Ardnamurchan Distillery but was unsure how far away it was until I came upon a whisky barrel at the side of the road proclaiming it to be in 1 mile.

I stopped at the distillery to buy some miniatures and merchandise, then headed a few hundred yards down the road to stop at the Ardnamurchan Natural History Visitor Centre for coffee and cake. After my stop, the hills reared up again! If it had been a road race the course would have been described as attritional! Eventually the last big climb was over and for the next few miles the wind was behind me and I flew along, even cycling uphill seemed easy. After a while I was surprised to see the sea in the distance, with an island. I recognised this to be Skye, the unmistakeable Cuillin mountains prominent on the horizon. After a while the road turned back into the wind for a long downhill section through to Kilchoan, where I may have exceeded the 30mph speed limit entering the village.

Riding through Kilchoan I passed the turn off for the ferry I’d be catching tomorrow and, after turning into the wrong campsite by mistake, headed past the local shop and on to my (correct) campsite. I checked in, pitched my tent in what I hoped would be a sheltered spot in amongst some trees, and headed off to Ardnamurchan lighthouse. Not before I’d taken all my heavy panniers off though, I knew there would be more climbing and needed all the help I could get.

It was only 7 miles, but undulating still. I was hoping to catch the cafe open, but didn’t hold out much hope. As it was though, I got there with plenty of time to spare. I had a good chat with the ladies running the cafe while I was buying food and gifts, and when I pointed out that I hadn’t bought any tools or puncture repair stuff they offered to take me back to the campsite in their pickup truck. I declined but said if they saw me in trouble when they left they could stop and help. After a walk around the lighthouse and taking a few pictures I set back off. I stopped at a few places for photos, at one spot I saw a bird of prey flying, at another the ladies from the cafe came past. They asked again if I needed a lift and I declined again. Further along the road I came across another deer on the road, this time I managed to take a photo before it disappeared into the trees.

Finally I got back to Kilchoan and headed uphill to the campsite. Along the road I slowed to avoid a chicken in the road, and who should come out of the house on the left but one of the ladies from the cafe! With a cheery wave I rode into the campsite and back to my tent.

Day 2: 44 miles, 7½ hours elapsed, 4,265 feet climbed 

Autumn Tour Day 1 : Oban - Mull - Strontian

I’d planned a four day tour around the Morvern and Ardnamurchan peninsulas, Mull and Iona to try to make the most of some good early autumn weather, with dry and settled conditions in the forecast when I set off up the M6. My trip started with an early morning ferry from Oban across to Craignure on Mull, and I excitedly went to check in and was directed to stand by a large yellow sign advising cyclists to ‘Q’ here for the ferry. Two other cyclists were on the same sailing as me, and we were loaded onto the ferry first ahead of all the vehicles. Securing my bike in the hold I made my way to the outside decks to enjoy the 50 minute journey. It was a cloudy morning, but as we set sail the sun started rising on the horizon, making a beautiful sight as it rose over the mountains. We passed the island of Lismore with its lighthouse, and approaching Mull were treated to good views of Duart Castle, and I was lucky enough to spot a pod of dolphins in the distance.

Soon we were docking at Craignure and I disembarked. After a quick check of the bike I set off west along the A849 for Fishnish, and my next ferry over the Sound of Mull to Lochaline. This was a much smaller ferry and a shorter journey at less than 20 minutes, and soon I was back on the mainland on the Morvern peninsula. A left turn just after the ferry terminal took me along a quiet, rolling road heading towards Drimnin, and the Nc’Nean distillery (shop visits by appointment only – luckily I’d received an email confirming I could visit whilst on the ferry from Oban!). The road offered some lovely views over the Sound to Mull, and inland there were wooded areas with lots of small waterfalls trickling down off the hills. I passed the rock formation of Clach Na Criche, known as the Wishing Stone as legend has it wishes were granted to anyone who passed through the hole in the rock without touching the sides, and shortly after came upon the pretty Ferinish Church and War Memorial at Bonnavoulin. I was also treated to the sight of a pine marten on the road ahead of me, although not for long as it scarpered pretty quick when it became aware of me.

I passed a sign warning of red squirrels, and then branched off the road at Drimnin Village Hall onto the Drimnin Estate. Soon I came upon a barrel at the side of the road which had “Nearly There” painted on its side. Another branch off the road had me climbing up and then I finally came to the distillery. I went into the shop and bought a couple of miniatures, and then the girl serving me asked if I wanted to join the tasting that was just abut to start. Well, it would seem rude not to, I thought, and shortly I was sat at a table with a friendly young German couple and an older Dutch couple. The tour guide then came in and asked if we wanted cake and biscuit with our whiskies – the day was turning out really good!

Two hours after I’d stopped I was ready to set off again. Both couples passed me in their cars with a cheery wave as I rode back towards Lochaline. Further down the road I came across a truck with a couple of workmen who were filling in potholes. I squeezed past on the narrow road after exchanging pleasantries, and a short while after they passed me on their way to the next repair. Soon I came upon them filling again and got offered a shovel to help them. I declined gracefully and bade them farewell again. Soon I got back to Lochaline and headed north on the main road, being passed with another cheery wave by the road workers. The road was very lumpy indeed, with many false summits crested, however the scenery with lots of mountains took my mind off it, and I stopped quite a few times to take photos and drink in the views.

After a while, and plenty more climbing, I reached a summit and got my first sighting of Loch Sunart. It was very scenic indeed, and the views got better as I descended. Back down on lower ground, I still had a number of miles of rolling road until I got to my campsite, and I was starting to feel fatigued by now. Eventually I crossed the Carnoch river and turned left on the A861 towards Strontian, stopping at the post office for ice cream before continuing on to the campsite. I pitched my tent, and walked to the local shop for supplies for tea. I watched half a dozen bats flitting about above me as I relaxed in the evening before settling down for a well earned good night’s sleep.

Day 1: 49 miles, 8 ½ hours elapsed time, 3,379 feet climbed