Today was going to be a long day, from Campbeltown to Inverneil, with plenty of climbing. I'd be lying if I said I wasn't a little apprehensive about it, but I'd done the distance before and longer, so off I set into a day that wasn't as chilly as I was expecting. I left Campbeltown on a climb, taking a final look back at my base for the last two days, and getting a good view of Davaar Island and the lighthouse. The wind was light this morning, and in my favour as I rode along the undulating road (is there any other type of road around here?). The road dipped and climbed as it crossed many streams emptying into sea, often on lovely stone bridges. At times on downhill stretches I came across hairpin bends requiring me to brake sharply to get round safely. At one point I passed a 12% downhill sign, inwardly smirking, only to get my come uppance around the corner at a 14% uphill sign! After a while I came to the village of Carradale where I'd intended to get some supplies in. Luckily the community post office was on the main road, meaning I didn't have to divert off route to find a shop.
I bought a few things, stopped for a drink and an energy bar, then set off again. All the while I was being treated to fabulous views over an azure blue water to Arran, whilst on my right was forest land and farm land, with sheep in the fields. At one point as I passed a house a black and white cat launched itself into the garden and ran along the fence as I sped past. There were some beautiful beaches from time to time as well, including one at the fantastically named Grogport. Shortly after I came across two birds of prey circling majestically over the edge of the loch. I passed a salmon fishing farm in the water, and also spotted what I assumed was the ferry to Lochranza on Arran. I soon came to the turn off for Claonaig, where the ferry works from, and Skipness Castle, however my route took me straight on and up the next challenging climb. I paused at the top to look back at Arran for the last time then continued on up and over to get my first views (again) of West Loch and Jura. At the end of the road I turned right on the A83 to head towards Tarbert. The traffic was understandably a lot busier than I had been used to thus far, and I was glad to turn off at Tarbert Golf Club (watch out for any wayward shots) for Kilberry.
There were some interesting looking yellow flowers among the bulrushes here (I don't get out much) that seemed to be the source of a strange aroma. The road to Kilberry was less hilly than normal, although still a little rolling, with glimpses of West Loch on my left and plenty of woodland. I passed a section of forest that seemed to have been named by someone with a bad cold - Achaglachgach! Bless you! The road felt very much like a Center Parcs road through a forest park, with what looked like holiday houses (or even possibly people's private houses) dotted here and there. At one vantage point I had a good view over to Gigha, where I'd ridden on Saturday, and soon got an even closer view of Jura. I'd been riding a fair while now, and was running out of water so was hoping for Kilberry to come with hopefully some shops. At last I came to the village, and luckily saw the Kilberry Inn had it's doors open. I was welcomed in by a lad from Burnley, who forced me to have two beers as we chatted about football, whisky and cycling.
It was an amazing little pub, with a lovely wooden bar and a great selection of whiskies. I've no idea how long I stayed there, but left feeling very refreshed indeed! After Kilberry the views opened up to my left with more stunning vistas of Jura, and then further along the road dropped down to the shores of Loch Caolisport. There were more beaches here, and at one spot I noticed three seals basking on top of some rocks, each with their own particular rock. They looked very comfortable in the sun indeed. I also came across another small herd of Highland Cattle splashing by a stream. Just after Ormsary I came across a house which had a display of Snow White and the Seven Dwarves in the garden. Soon I turned away from the loch and my computer chirped with the last climb of the day. I was around five miles from the B&B and was now faced with a climb of just over two miles. There was nothing for it but to slip it into the smallest gear and grind up, and after a while I managed to get to the summit and saw in the distance Loch Fyne for the first time.
Fortunately the horrible long climb was followed by a lovely long descent, on a wonderfully wide and smoothly tarmaced road. I flew down this, soon coming to the A83 again, where I turned left and almost immediately left again into my B&B for the night. It had been a long day, but not too stressful, with some lovely treats by way of views and wildlife. Just one more ride tomorrow now back to Oban.
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