I woke to a beautiful day in Oban, and the flag outside the hotel was showing no activity, suggesting a day of light wind. I should have known better. After breakfast and checking out I loaded the panniers on the bike (they felt heavy!) and set off for Tarbert. I knew there was a climb to come very close to the start, and sure enough after only two miles I was presented with a climb of over 16%! I got off and walked / pushed for a while, not for the first time that day - after only two and a half miles I'd already climbed over 300 feet. After cresting the summit, the road settled into a roller coaster ride, up and down and up and down. I passed a load of gorse that was out in bloom, the scent of coconut filling the air with a view towards the mountains ahead.

Shortly after I came to a T junction where a left turn took you north up the Caledonia Way to Inverness, while I chose right to go south towards Campbeltown, before a left turn along Glen Lonan Road which ran alongside the chattering river Lonan. I passed a field of three Highland Cattle, two adults and a calf. Soon the hills around Ben Cruachan came into view, and these were a permanent fixture ahead of me for a while. A little further on again I came across a large herd of Highland Cattle spread across the road, adults and calves. I wasn't too bothered as from previous experience I knew how calm these beauties were, but with calves alongside you can never be too sure, so it was a little caution that I cycled slowly through the herd, talking to them as I went. The little calves were playing in the sun, and I hoped they wouldn't cannon into me by accident. As it was I got through without a hitch, an enjoyable experience.

After leaving Oban the wind had picked up and was a strong headwind all the way, although the road did pass through a bit of woodland and the wind disappeared for a short time. On reaching Taynuilt my route joined the main A85 for a short section before turning off south on the Kilchrenan Road. This was another roller coaster road, although it has to be said the surfaces were pretty good, thanks to it being a main logging route. There were more trees around now and I passed the Glen Nant National Forest, and also the Barrachander quarry where there were definitely fewer trees. I then came to the village of Kilchrenan where the round swung south west to run alongside Loch Awe, the signpost showing it was just seven and a half miles to Dalavich and my lunch stop.

Unfortunately it was seven and a half undulating miles, with each stiff climb being followed by an exhilerating downhill, with frequent get-off-and-push moments. Fortunately there was little traffic along this road, and I got my first glimpses of Loch Awe to take my mind away from the uphill effort. At one point I looked behind me and the view took my breath away (nothing to do with the climbing effort!).

Eventually I rolled up at the tranquil Wild Rowan Cafe where I spent an enjoyable half hour wishing I could just go to sleep. Back on the road I passed a few forest roads that seemed improbably named - one being New York Bypass! Loch Awe is Scotland's longest freshwater loch, and the road seemed to be going on interminably - I found myself occasionally wishing it would bloody well end as I was getting a little tired of all the climbing. Finally I found myself going more downhill that up, and at last I came to the A816 and headed towards Baluachraig. My planned route was to turn off immediately to Carnasserie Castle to avoid the main road, however a sign informed me that this was on a rough, unmade path with steep ascents, so I took an executive decision to stay on the main road to turn off in Baluachraig. Passing the Nether Largie Standing Stones, the road ran straight as an arrow for two miles to cross the River Add on a weak bridge.
Here I joined the Crinnan Canal towpath, a good firm flat surface where I was still struggling to keep the pace with the headwind blowing. I stopped at a marker post for 5 miles to Ardrishaig and ate an oat bar that I'd brought with me for energy. It seemed to help for a while and I started bowling along the towpath passing a couple on their mountain bikes, and repassing them later after I'd missed my turning to continue on the towpath. I came to Lochgilphead where I headed into town to get a Coke and some more cake, then found a bench overlooking Loch Gilp to enjoy them. I could see Ardrishaig harbour in the distance where I'd originally planned on eating.
Rejoining the canal towpath I soon arrived at Ardrishaig where I joined the main A83 for Tarbert. A short while down the road I passed my B&B for Monday evening. On my left Loch Gilp had become Loch Fyne, and there were glorious views opening up to the hills of the isle of Arran and Kilfinan on the opposite shore. Loch Fyne is known for its seafood, and I passed a couple of salmon farming operations on the loch. Despite the A83 being a main route the traffic wasn't too bad, all of the drivers gave me a decent berth as they overtook me on their way to Tarbert. There were still a few climbs, but these were all rideable, and I counted down the miles to my final destination. One final climb registered on my Garmin, which I overcame, but there was still time to stick another short effort into the mix before I found myself dropping into Tarbert, I stopped for a photo on the opposite side of the harbour to my B&B for the night, and then headed into town to turn along the harbour road and stop, exhausted but happy, at the B&B.
It had been a hard day physically and mentally at times, but definitely enjoyable. That is, until I checked in at the B&B and realised I didn't have my wallet with my phone and cards in! Long story short, I'd left it on the bench in Lochgilphead and someone had found it and handed it in to the local police station. Now that's a mistake I hope I never make again!
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