Thursday, April 28, 2022

Water and stones - Scotland 2022 day 2

A late change of plan saw me decide to take the trip south to Ruthven Barracks today. After setting off from the hotel I made my way to Forest Road where I came across some lovely forest track (as you would expect!). I followed this along and after a couple of wrong turns, going back and forth, I eventually found myself on the Old Spey Bridge. Here I stopped for a photo and to reset my bike computer, which got confused by my toing and froing. While I was doing this, a friendly little red squirrel hopped onto the parapet, staying around just long enough for me to pull my phone out, at which he promptly disappeared, a little camera shy!


Having sorted my computer and with directions, I headed off, crossing the A95 and taking the B970 towards Nethy Bridge. The road undulated gently and after a few miles I came across Castle Roy, and it's guardian Murdo. The castle was built between 1190 & 1220, Murdo is somewhat younger. The Spey valley lay to my right, looking very lush in the morning sunshine. After passing Abernethy Golf Club, I came into Nethy Bridge, the bridge over the River Nethy being very pretty indeed with a row of daffodils lining the river bank. Leaving Nethy Bridge I continued on the B970, stopping every now and then to take a photo of the gorgeous scenery. I came across lovely river vistas, donkeys, and Loch Pityoulish, where it seems some people were wild swimming! Eventually I reached Coylumbridge and a junction, where I turned right past the Coylumbridge Hotel. Shortly after this, I turned left onto what eventually became the Old Logging Road, a rough gravel track that lead towards Loch An Eilein. I stopped here for a few minutes, enjoying the quiet, the clear water and the views out towards the mountains. Suitably refreshed, I retraced my route to the Old Logging Road then continued on to rejoin the B970, where I turned left and headed towards Feshiebridge. The road, as most in this area, was rolling and I had moments of speeding along nicely only to be brought to a slow crawl again as the road rose up. Still, the scenery continued to impress, especially when the trees opened out and showed views over towards the Spey.

At Feshiebridge, the road turned sharp right over the River Feshie, which was giving a good show of waterfalls over the layered rocks. I came across a group of young kids on bikes here, chaperoned by a couple of presumably teachers. I think I lost my intended route here, but continued on the B970 which was also NCN route 7. At another sharp right the road crossed the River Tromie, which was also producing a good torrent of white water. The road then passed the RSPB Insh Marshes, before reaching the imposing Ruthven Barracks, a small 18th century garrison built between 1719 and 1721. Standing on a mound, it is easy to visualise how dominant and foreboding it would have looked shortly after being built. Leaving Ruthven Barracks behind, I followed the B970 into Kingussie, turning right away from NCN 7 and going through the town. The road eventually became the B9152, and at one point outside Lynchat there were flocks of gulls and ducks in the fields on either side, making an unholy racket over something. Further on the road passed the Highland Wildlife Park advertising a Polar Bear Cub, followed by a sign for Working Sheepdogs. I wondered what sort of working they did, admin, manual??

At Kincraig I turned off  to have a look at Loch Insh, although truth be told I only made it to the bridge over the River Spey which afforded a fantastic view. Rejoining the road I continued on towards Aviemore, pausing at Loch Alvie for another photo stop. Entering Aviemore I turned off to go behind the railway station, passing the Strathspey Steam Railway where I saw a coach from Bideford, near Barnstaple where my mum and sister live. I picked up NCN 7 again here, passing a splendidly painted route marker and passing the Cairngorm Brewery (pausing to see if there was a bar / shop open), and eventually passing under the railway through a very narrow tunnel. This brought me onto a nice gravel track through some woods, which I followed until my computer beeped at me to indicate I was off course. I retraced my steps, as I hadn't seen any obvious path off, and saw what could have been a track, although it was going almost vertically uphill. I pushed to the top of this, and sure enough there was something that looked like a singletrack trail. I followed this, which was rideable but would probably be best described as gnarly, having roots and pebbles to trap the unwary rider.

This wound its way up and down before eventually rejoining the gravel track, which gave a glorious sweeping through the woods into Boat of Garten. Aside from the gnarly off-off-road piece, which I'd probably avoid if I rode the route again, the journey from Aviemore to Boat of Garten turned out to be great fun. I knew at this point that the Strathspey Railway was running today, and was hoping to get a video to send to my father-in-law, having failed three times before to get something on camera for him. As I was passing the holiday chalets on the outskirts of Boat of Garten I heard the unmistakable rattling and clunking of a steam train, and glancing to my right I saw the roofs of the carriages passing below. The curse of the missed train video strikes again!! I called in at Boat of Garten station to see when the next arrival was, but sadly it wasn't for another hour. My disappointment soon abated when I left the town and crossed the Spey, where I got a great shot of the river with the snow covered mountains behind. At the end of the road I came across the B970 that I ridden down before, and instead of turning onto it I crossed into Abernethy Natural Nature Reserve to take a track that I'd noticed from the road earlier.

This turned out to be a typical forest singletrack, being lumpy and soft and slower than being on the road, however I persevered and eventually popped out onto the road leading towards Loch Garten. I stopped for more photos then continued on past the Loch along rolling roads through forest to eventually rejoin the B970 outside Nethy Bridge. At the bridge, this time I turned off the B970 to pick up the Speyside Way by Nethy Bridge station. This had a grassier surface than I'd seen in other parts of the Speyside Way, which was a little lumpy in parts. There were also several gates to pass through, as it passed by several farms, so progress was a bit stop go. At Bailliefurth Farm the track to a diversion past the farm yard, and on picking up the original way again I came across a small group of light brown pigs with darker spots, as well as a sign post indicating I was only 3 and a half miles from Grantown On Spey. Just outside Grantown the track got closer to the River Spey, and I stopped to take a photo of the new Cairn Distillery that is being built alongside the river, due to open for visits in Spring 2022.

In due course I came to the end of the Speyside Way at the A95, and crossed over to return to Grantown. I decided to stop for tea at the brilliant Grantown East, a Highland Heritage and Cultural Centre that also has two old railway coaches where you can get something to eat. Having worked so hard on the road, I decided to go for a Locomotive Breakfast pizza and a cappucino. I have to say it was a great decision, the pizza was probably the best I'd ever had! Suitably refreshed, I got back on the bike and headed back to the hotel, through the delightful forest track again, where a hot bath was calling me. 

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