Monday, June 28, 2021

Scotland Day 1: Callander to Killin, a nice hike......

Me having just crossed Glen Ogle viaduct

Day 1 started in the traditional fashion, with breakfast. In this case it was the Ultimate Scottish Fryup. Suitably sustained, I set off from Callander and joined NCN route 7 just outside my B&B. From Callander to Strathyre, the path is tarmaced and slightly rolling, the slightly boring surface made up for by the superb views (and sounds) of the fast flowing Garbh Uisge. A treat that I'd get on the way back as well!! Shortly the track went through Strathyre Forest Holidays, think of Center Parcs and you wouldn't be far wrong, other than the significantly fewer number of chalets. After the holiday park, the track turned into a gravel one, and soon rose in a series of hairpin bends to test the unwary rider. The reward at the top was a stunning view south over Loch Lubnaig. This was followed by a track down towards Strathyre which was in the process of being resurfaced, sadly the roller hadn't been over it when I went through.

From here I chose to ignore the turn into Strathyre and thence along NCN7 and took the quiet forest road through Strathyre Forest, an undulating affair with some nice downhills and short climbs to take the breath away. The views eventually opened out over Balquhidder to the mountains, and the road came to a bridge over a river (Loch Voll) emptying from the Loch of the same name. Balquhidder Parish Church is where Rob Roy MacGregor is buried, so I stopped for a gander. I may have been looking at the wrong grave (quite possibly as there were two graveyards) but I watched the Susan Calman Secret Scotland program where she visited the grave, and it looked similar (although given my powers of observation and recall I'm not putting any money on it). Anyway, I told two women visiting from London what I thought was his grave, and remarked that it wasn't that grandiose. One of them replied that it was like Robin Hood's house wasn't it - neither of them were real! 
Rob Roy's Grave. Or not.

Leaving Balquhidder, the road rollercoastered towards the A84 main road, where I picked up NCN7 again for a short while. I'd decided to take a ride over three Glens rather than take a smooth and slightly rising old railway track, and so diverted off left after a short distance into a nice gravel track. It was going uphill, but that was ok as the gravel surface was comfortably rideable, so all was good. That was until I went through a gate into some lamb filled fields where the surface turned into good old farm track - where the wheel tracks are filled with stones of various sizes that make it hard / impossible to get any consistent momentum going. It was only a few km, but it got steadily worse, so much that I decided (or rather, my legs decided) that it would be easier to walk. Ha ha - hard as it is to ride up a surface like that, it's as much of a bitch pushing a bike up it! Must admit I had a few stops on the way, to take photo of some lovely waterfalls you understand, and it was absolutely bloody lovely just standing there with no noise other than the birds, the lambs, oh, and me panting like an old dog!
Gate, lulling me into a false sense of security

Finally though, I got to the top, looking forward to a nice descent. Fat chance! The track continued in the same vein, requiring the use of both brakes virtually constantly to avoid being catapulted off the bike. Not only that, there were sheep and lambs to contend with. Dozy buggers would run along the track ahead of me to get away (just jump to the side you fools!), I swear there was one on the side that was giving me abuse as I went past, the amount of baaing that went on. Finally though, the track became more rideable and I eventually got to the bottom, not before it threw up one final treat - a wide flowing water flow that had to be crossed using stepping stones! I was now back on a disused railway track, and headed off to pick up the main road into Killin.
Where's the ferry???

Just before Killin, there is a great view of the River Dochart flowing over some boulders, so I stopped for a photo.
River Dochart
Just as well, as the Falls of Dochart, which can be spectacularly beautiful, were covered in tourists clambering over the boulders. I crossed the bridge into Killin and stopped at the gift shop for a bottle of cold water and a cold Coke (heaven). I then followed the road through town and turned right into Pier Road, then picked up the old railway track again back through Killin, going over a bridge over the River Lochay, and then the River Dochart on Dochart Viaduct (the second oldest mass-concrete constructed railway viaduct in Britain - didn't take a photo as a) it is only the second oldest and b) you couldn't really see it). I left Killin and turned into the forest. I ignored the sign for NCN7 as I'd cunningly plotted
a different route and climbed up to get onto a forest road only to find my way barred by Forestry Commission works. Bugger! Back down the descent to the NCN7 sign, I picked it up and worked my way through the forest, on rolling roads that had me blowing hard, still I knew that there would be a takeaway cafe by the road for a coffee and cake. There was. It was shut - the curse of the cafes continues to follow me around! It was just before here, when I was puffing uphill again, that another cyclist, on a road or gravel bike, came past me, claiming he'd need an e-bike! 'Oh bother' I thought, or something similar, if he needed an e-bike what would I need!
Takeaway. Shut. Shit.

NCN7 runs from here alongside the main A85 road, and soon it moves away from and rises above the road. It's a good track though, and soon comes along to the Glen Ogle viaduct, which runs in a curve just in front of the hills behind it.
Glen Ogle viaduct, without me

I stopped for a couple of photos (and not because I was puffing and blowing!), including the obligatory touristy selfy. The route continued on good surface, and mainly downhill, passing Lochearnhead, which afforded superb views of Loch Earn nestling in the hills. Eventually NCN7 reached the road to Balquhidder where I continued on southwards towards Strathyre. The track continued to be well surfaced and there were some lovely views towards the hills.
Lovely view towards the hills

There's a good cafe in Strathyre, apparently. I didn't know where it was. Still, it was only 10 miles from Callander so it didn't really matter. Leaving Strathyre I noticed a couple of cyclists ahead of me, but thought nothing of it. Soon though, I came across them talking to a walker on the route, and nipped between them, thinking nothing of it. There were more views of the lovely Garbh Uisge and so I stopped to take a video. Whilst I was doing this, who should come past (and make a noise) but the two cyclists! Thinking nothing of it again, I remounted and set off and who should I see shortly on the rocks
in the water but the two cyclists! Once more I stopped to take a photo (and make use of a handy bench alongside the river) and again the two passed me. 
Garbh Uisge

That was it until just before entering Callander I saw them again - they were across the road from me at a junction with the track. At that point I lost the will to live, and let them set off in front of me. It was only a short ride to the B&B from here, and the end of the first ride. Hard work at times, fun pretty much most of the time, awesome scenery throughout. And fish and chips and beer to replace the calories expended. All in all, a grand day out!


The route


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