Proper bike-packing

I recently undertook a 'proper' bike-packing trip, i.e. actually carrying my camping equipment on the bike, as a tester to see how I would manage, prior to a couple of tours I've got in mind for the future. Destination for this was The Old Mill at Candy, the other side of Oswestry, not too far away but far enough to make it a decent test. Most of the roads were familiar to me from a 100 mile ride I did to Whittington Castle last year, but I also threw in some cycle paths through Crewe to Nantwich to see what they were like.

I set off with the usual panniers on the back, but also for the first time with a bar bag carrying my sleeping bag. It was quite strange at first but I soon got used to the setup. Going through Crewe on the cycle paths was reasonably ok, but nowhere near as fast as if I'd been on the road. Not far into Crewe I'd just ridden onto a cycle path beside the King George V playing fields when I rode over a speed bump and bang - my pannier rack became detached. Although a simple fix, it did take a while to resolve as I had to take off my sleeping mat and panniers to reattach - first learning point (add a secondary security option to the pannier rack to avoid future repeats). I set off again through Crewe and then took the cycle path alongside the A530 at Wistaston to head towards Nantwich. Following the cycle route I missed a turn in Nantwich before getting back onto the familiarity and comfort (!) of the roads again.

After Nantwich I headed through quieter roads to Wrenbury, and on to Whitchurch. The day was turning quite warm now and I was beginning to regret my choice of jacket for the trip, although there was sufficient wind to keep me from overheating. At Whitchurch I joined another cycle path where a rather fancy marker post indicated I was on the Mercian Way. Back on the roads I continued on towards Whixall, where I called in at the marina for refreshments.

Leaving Whixhall I headed past Lyneal Moss and on to Colemere, where I cycled past the grapes of Colemere vineyard, cycling on through narrow and verdant lanes. Near Welsh Frankton (in England) I joined the main Oswestry road for a short while before turning off through more narrow lanes, twisting and turning before coming out onto the road to Gobowen. Leaving the town on the Chirk Road, I turned off uphill into more narrow lanes before a left turn saw me heading towards Oswestry. Passing Old Oswestry Hill Fort I dropped down into the town, threading my way through the streets and out past Oswestry School. Leaving the town, I turned off on Back Racecourse Lane (leading to the old racecourse), then left towards Candy, and a final short descent to the Old Mill and my place for the night.

The friendly owner showed me around the site, after which I set up my tent and took advantage of the portable shower, and tucked into a superb baked potato with chicken, leek, ham and mushroom. As a bonus it turned out the site was licenced as well, so I washed it all down with a few bottles of beer. Sitting there, in the bottom of a valley with lush countryside around me, listening to the gentle sounds of the birds, cattle and sheep, I felt very relaxed indeed.

I turned in for the night and had a decent sleep, waking only for a call of nature, until dawn at just after 4am when it seemed that a thousand rooks were waging war on each other! I managed to get back off to sleep and woke again later, when I packed away my gear and headed off to the Kettle House where I made myself a brew to go with the bacon and egg breakfast bap I'd ordered the night before. Setting off again I retraced my route through Oswestry to Gobowen, where I headed out through St Martin's and into Wales, heading through Overton and then taking a turning for Worthenbury. Shortly after, I turned off the Malpas road to head through Shocklach and on to Crewe By Farndon. Here I turned right towards Stretton, then right again to Tilston and The Lost Barn cafe, where I stopped for lunch and a great conversation with a couple of gentlemen about cycling and touring in Scotland.

After lunch I set off through familiar (and some unfamiliar) roads back to Nantwich, where again my navigation on the cycle paths went awry a couple of times before getting back on track and heading to Crewe. Here again, the cycle paths did their best to confound me, not being helped by a closure on one of them with no signed diversion, but I finally made my way out to Leighton and thence back through Warmingham Lane and Hall Lane and home.

It had been a fun trip, and I came away with a few lessons for the future. As well as pannier rack security, I've since got a lighter and more compact sleeping mat and a lighter tent, which is yet to arrive. My next bike-packing trip is in the hilly Yorkshire Wolds, where the lighter equipment should be very useful indeed!

The shower

My tea

My tent

Scotland 2025 Day 5 : The good food day

I woke up early and managed to catch the sun rising over Loch Fyne, with mist rising on the mainland opposite. It was a reasonably short hop back to Oban today, on the Caledonia Way as far as Kilmartin then on the main road from there. As a treat I had crunchy nut cornflakes, fruit and Loch Fyne Smoked Salmon omelette to set me up. On checking out I noticed a picture of the "looks like an old art deco hotel" building from south of Campbeltown (Day 3), so asked the B&B owner if she knew the story. "Yes", she said, "it's an old art deco style hotel that fell into disrepair". I loaded the panniers on the bike and set off on the short ride to Ardrishaig, enjoying my last glimpses of Loch Fyne. At Ardrishaig I left the main road to pick up the Crinnan Canal towpath.

I enjoyed the flat towpath run, and there were few people around on it. I passed Lochgilphead, checked that I still had my wallet (I did), and bowled along, enjoying the cool morning and the beautiful surroundings, so much so that I started singing as I rode. One bloke left the towpath a bit sharpish before I could say excuse me! After passing a few locks I came to the Moine Mhor National Nature Reserve on my right, one of the largest and most important intact examples of peatland in Britain. There were a few cattle grazing in there, and several birds were calling. Soon after a motor yacht came down the canal towards me, and I then came to Bellanoch Swing Bridge, where I left the towpath and headed northwards over a very nice looking weak bridge.

The road ran dead straight here, and I paused a moment to watch the cattle march to get stuck into a stack of hay and watched a bird calling and flying. It was very tranquil and peaceful and made you feel glad to be alive. Continuing on the straight road, I passed a lovely stone bridge over Kilmartin Burn and came to Nether Largie Standing Stones, an X shaped monument of five tall standing stones that line up with the rising and setting of the sun and moon at significant times. I got off my bike and wandered over for a bit of a nosy. 

This road had been very quiet in terms of traffic, but soon after the stones I came to the busier A816 that would take me straight into Oban. The first stretch wasn't too bad and I rode through Kilmartin with its beautiful old parish church and graveyard. Shortly after I came to the point where the Caledonia Way branched off right towards Ford and Dalavich, where I'd come through on Day 1. I was feeling quite smug at all the climbing I'd be missing on that leg, when the main road started rising and my computer beeped to warn me of the first of the day's five climbs. Suddenly I wasn't feeling so smug any more, and my legs started to feel the efforts of the previous days. At least I had the chattering Abhainn Airidhcheoduis river on my left to distract me. The road continued to rise and fall among bits of woodland and fields, and eventually I spotted on my left Ardfern Yacht Centre on Loch Craignish.

I rode past the turn off for Craignish wondering if there was a post office or general stores coming up where I could get something to eat. Soon the road dropped downhill and I picked up speed until I came to some roadworks with lights, where I was brought to a halt. Traffic came from the opposite direction but it was soon my turn to go, and I then found another set of roadworks with traffic lights just as my computer beeped for the second climb of the day. The lights were red again as I approached, however I could see nothing coming the other way and the roadworks seemed quite short so I nipped through and hugged the cones as I crawled slowly upwards. Nothing did come, but I did have an escape route planned just in case. Soon after more blue appeared on my left as I came across Asknish Bay, with a sign for Loch Melfort Hotel with a cafe. Feeling peckish, I headed in and had a coronation chicken sandwich and the classiest cake I'd ever had - marmalade drizzle with cream and fruit - and a lovely view of Asknish Bay.

Suitably refreshed I set off again with lovely views of the aforementioned Loch Melfort on my right. Climb 3 of the day, a stinker, came and went, and I passed Loch nan Druimnean with some wild salmon farming, and then the River Oude Reservoir. The road continued through forest and farmland again for a while, then just after Kilninver a view opened up on my left over to the Isle of Mull.

I rode on through Knipoch, and came to the last climb of the day which was every bit as tough as the others, but somehow knowing it was the last helped ease the pain. After this the road dropped steeply into Oban and I found myself suddenly in an unknown place. I stopped for a quick look around, and soon realised that I knew where I was, and headed on into the town centre intending to stop for an ice cream at The Pokey Hat. Sadly Oban was rammed with people, presumably as it was warm and school holiday time, so I abandoned my ice cream plans and headed to the hotel to load the bike into the car, check in and enjoy a hot bath, after which I treated myself to Deluxe Fish and Chips at the fabulous Waterfront Restaurant.

For what was really a Plan B trip, my Oban - Campbeltown - Oban tour had been a very enjoyable five days, if tougher than expected. Kintyre is a place I'd never considered visiting, however it proved to be a little treasure with lots of spectacular scenery. 

Scotland 2025 Day 4 : More treats than you can shake a stick at

Today was going to be a long day, from Campbeltown to Inverneil, with plenty of climbing. I'd be lying if I said I wasn't a little apprehensive about it, but I'd done the distance before and longer, so off I set into a day that wasn't as chilly as I was expecting. I left Campbeltown on a climb, taking a final look back at my base for the last two days, and getting a good view of Davaar Island and the lighthouse. The wind was light this morning, and in my favour as I rode along the undulating road (is there any other type of road around here?). The road dipped and climbed as it crossed many streams emptying into sea, often on lovely stone bridges. At times on downhill stretches I came across hairpin bends requiring me to brake sharply to get round safely. At one point I passed a 12% downhill sign, inwardly smirking, only to get my come uppance around the corner at a 14% uphill sign! After a while I came to the village of Carradale where I'd intended to get some supplies in. Luckily the community post office was on the main road, meaning I didn't have to divert off route to find a shop. 

I bought a few things, stopped for a drink and an energy bar, then set off again. All the while I was being treated to fabulous views over an azure blue water to Arran, whilst on my right was forest land and farm land, with sheep in the fields. At one point as I passed a house a black and white cat launched itself into the garden and ran along the fence as I sped past. There were some beautiful beaches from time to time as well, including one at the fantastically named Grogport. Shortly after I came across two birds of prey circling majestically over the edge of the loch. I passed a salmon fishing farm in the water, and also spotted what I assumed was the ferry to Lochranza on Arran. I soon came to the turn off for Claonaig, where the ferry works from, and Skipness Castle, however my route took me straight on and up the next challenging climb. I paused at the top to look back at Arran for the last time then continued on up and over to get my first views (again) of West Loch and Jura. At the end of the road I turned right on the A83 to head towards Tarbert. The traffic was understandably a lot busier than I had been used to thus far, and I was glad to turn off at Tarbert Golf Club (watch out for any wayward shots) for Kilberry. 

There were some interesting looking yellow flowers among the bulrushes here (I don't get out much) that seemed to be the source of a strange aroma. The road to Kilberry was less hilly than normal, although still a little rolling, with glimpses of West Loch on my left and plenty of woodland. I passed a section of forest that seemed to have been named by someone with a bad cold - Achaglachgach! Bless you! The road felt very much like a Center Parcs road through a forest park, with what looked like holiday houses (or even possibly people's private houses) dotted here and there. At one vantage point I had a good view over to Gigha, where I'd ridden on Saturday, and soon got an even closer view of Jura. I'd been riding a fair while now, and was running out of water so was hoping for Kilberry to come with hopefully some shops. At last I came to the village, and luckily saw the Kilberry Inn had it's doors open. I was welcomed in by a lad from Burnley, who forced me to have two beers as we chatted about football, whisky and cycling. 

It was an amazing little pub, with a lovely wooden bar and a great selection of whiskies. I've no idea how long I stayed there, but left feeling very refreshed indeed! After Kilberry the views opened up to my left with more stunning vistas of Jura, and then further along the road dropped down to the shores of Loch Caolisport. There were more beaches here, and at one spot I noticed three seals basking on top of some rocks, each with their own particular rock. They looked very comfortable in the sun indeed. I also came across another small herd of Highland Cattle splashing by a stream. Just after Ormsary I came across a house which had a display of Snow White and the Seven Dwarves in the garden. Soon I turned away from the loch and my computer chirped with the last climb of the day. I was around five miles from the B&B and was now faced with a climb of just over two miles. There was nothing for it but to slip it into the smallest gear and grind up, and after a while I managed to get to the summit and saw in the distance Loch Fyne for the first time.

Fortunately the horrible long climb was followed by a lovely long descent, on a wonderfully wide and smoothly tarmaced road. I flew down this, soon coming to the A83 again, where I turned left and almost immediately left again into my B&B for the night. It had been a long day, but not too stressful, with some lovely treats by way of views and wildlife. Just one more ride tomorrow now back to Oban.